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I am using a t300 rs with t3pa pro pedals. The brake has a conical mod so travel is limited unless you stamp on it like a superhuman. I am only posting this as I hope there are others in the same position who will appreciate the situation. The game plays well (apart from server issues that keep stopping game saves), though the force feedback on the t300 feels seriously heavy, even with settings low its still strong ffb, perhaps too strong.
but the lack of pedal calibration is my biggest concern. With pedal calibration (and deadzone) its possible to fine tune the experience so maximum travel of the brake isnt required to get a full brake application. It would also allow for any conical mod users to have the brake come in at the point the rubber meets the pedal for much finer control. In my case I am either braking way too soft and overcooking corners, or pushing so hard that its impossible to gauge correctly without having to look at the brake meter on screen. I was disappointed to see that although a lot of wheels are supported, the pedals are not shown anywhere and so have no calibration options.
Other than that though, the game looks like its a winner.
For a game that is pointed towards the more serious racer, the lack of calibration is a real let down.
I'm using my old Logitech pedals with my T300, they have the same sensitivity as the Thrustmaster equivalent... Added a few Mods to the pedal pressures as well as you. Just by a different means.
A game like this needs everything adjustable.
For Rally driving, I like to map the clutch pedal as my Handbrake..... works well with DiRT 4.
Yeah same. Which is confusing because (at least on PC) the pedals calibrate themselves on the first push so should be giving 100% at the desired point.
Just gave this another test. After the game boots, gave the brake (T3PA Pro with conical rubber) a firm press. Once in game, the brake meter on the HUD was indicating 100% with a similarly firm press of the pedal. I get the impression though they are constantly re-calibrating, so an extra hard press will shift 100% to that point.
I brought this issue to PDI's attention.
Have you received any information from PDI ?@MastrGT
I rarely get feedback about issues brought to their attention, so no, but I might get a chance to ask them about it again next week. If they have the wheel available, maybe I can feel what is going on.@oWEBSKINo
I temporarily replaced the cone on the T3PA pedals as an experiment with a bolt so that the threaded end protruded approx. 15mm in order to engage the "short pedal travel" system calibration which gave no further issues with the loss of the initial point set for maximum brake pressure on the brake meter.
I also think PD need to bring back the adjustment for brake balance strength rather than just brake bias by itself -I think this is critical to those that use the T3PA pedals and Fanatec Load cell who only require relatively small pedal travel. Even the when the brake indicator is at 1/4 -1/3, the car hardly slows at all even when the brakes have been properly calibrated as described above.
This is a huge concern to me that there is no option for calibration for pedals.
The thing is though, if the wheel is self-calibrating every time you push the pedal, having in-game calibration as well doesn't really make sense to me. I know other games do this but it still seems like it could cause some inconsistency. Sure, allow the player to adjust the linearity of the travel. Maybe the Thrustmaster wheels only calibrate for the first few presses then stop.
Its not good as it is. Not knowing if the pedal calibrates on first press, or six presses, or first 30 seconds? All it does is build in an inconsistency from the word go. Using another game as an example, pcars allows the pedals to be set as you want and you then 'know' where the max limit is and can set it accordingly. So an adult can have a heavier pressure for full brake than a child as an example.
but for anyone with a conical mod (a part that comes with the t3pa pedal sets so we are not talking extra modification here) the generic feel is off. With the conical mod you lose some percentage of travel (those who use heavier duty come mods probably lose more) so to get a full brake (showing on the screen)needs a lot of force. Iys a shame as in reality the force needed for a full brake application in game would ideally be a lot less than the heavy force you 'need' to physically apply as things are at present.
if, as has been suggested, the game is using some constant reading to find the maximum, then its far from good. We used to have friends round and race the same tracks for timing glory. Who was fastest? This meant numerois people swapping out in the driving seat. If the game is constantly taking the heaviest brake user as the maximum brake, then everybody else is at a disadvantage as the only person who then gets to drive with any consistency is the heavy braker. Everybody else is having to push harder to achieve a similar brake.
all I know fit sure is that the only thing I truly disliked about GTs (apart from struggling to save my game all the time) was the horrible brake. It was way too stiff to use well and did lottle to make smooth driving a true option. Instead it ended up being a point and squirt excercise. Flat out, All in on the brake, realise you need more as its a solid feel but needed more as the gauge on screen showed about 75 percent brake, apply more, go wide and end up out of position, all because the brakes maximum force is so far away from where you actually want it to be.
same problem here, Thrustmaster T500 RS. can only get about half the braking with the realistic brake mod installed. Surely they can fix this...
I found this thread looking for a solution because this issue is driving me nuts. My G29 pedals are 2 years old and the pot in the Accelerator is getting noisy. In GT Sport this means I often can't achieve full throttle so I'm loosing valuable time. I love GT Sport but this is not a problem in other sims since I can set deadzones at either end of any pedal to remove unintentional activation and make sure 100% application can be achieved. I find it a bit shocking that some sims still lack such an essential feature in 2017. If they don't want to give users the option to tune their pedals just include a remove noise option that people can select that causes the game to automatically add 7% deadzone at the start and end of each pedal. That normally is enough to remove noise from most pedals.
I have a T300RS with T3PA with the Conical Rubber Brake and I suffer from the same problem.
Please add options to calibrate brake.
See there for other complaints :
I have tried adapting to this, but the fact is its never going go feel nice with the conical brake until we get calibration. As such its now become an occasional game to me when friends are online rather than the goto racer. Apart from the lack of control making it feel more arcade racer as its become 'all in' for braking all the time (not smooth and controlled) I am also thinking such heavy action being needed on the brake pedal does little for the mechanical longevity of the pedal set. Full force all the time is going to damage something eventually, even if its just wearing the pivot out. Gts is not a simulator in any way without calibration. I hate dissing this game as it looks awesome and plays well apart from the braking issue. If i knew where the spring mod was for my pedals I would switch out the cone for a while just to see if the game plays better, but no idea where that is anymore so the game is in effect not good for the oversight. That and swapping things around every time i play a different game isnt really an option.
Pcars is now my preferred game again as the actual driving controls are so much better. Even pcars 2 with all its issues and vagueness on t300 is still looking like a better option, if nothing else my brake pedal will get a rest.
I don't know if it's the same problem, but my problem is the real position vs game position. Like 70-80% of the pedal means 50% in-game. This applies both to brake (I always used ABS in GT) and accelerator (this is that kills me). There are 2 side-effects:
- I don't have the precision for 50+% control (which is 20-30% of the real pedal), so on corner exit I'm slower, as I'm too careful
- drifting is done by toggling the accelerator and "hoping" I got the correct power request
I assume they apply the same mapping as the dualshock joysticks/triggers. It's the only reason I think of for not being linear and with no correction (note: I'm terrible with DS4, so I can't confirm they use a similar mapping). On GTPlanet there was also a G29 user reporting the same non-linearity.
I don't know if you are really affected by "missing" maximum pedal or the fact that to get beyond 50% in game, you need to be near full force with the conical mod.
PS: I got to PS (2&3) because of GT. But this wheel "feature" is killing me.
Calibration is confusing me, and being blonde, that's easily done.
The brake pedals have 1024 or is it 1028 steps from zero to fully pressed - fully pressed would give you 100% braking. Now, we are adding brake mods to increase the pressure of our braking foot. It is now harder to press down to achieve 100% braking, but when we do press down with these mods, we are getting a better feeling as it's easier to hold the pedal in position.
It may come down to personal preference, but if you are shortening the brake travel but keeping those 1024 steps... Surely, you have less of a brake feeling as you have less brake travel between each step??
Does that kinda make sense, or have I just had a massive blonde moment??
Yes, You are right. Ideally The Resolution should be higher near the break mod. But It does not the case and I think it will never.
But this is not the problem exposed here. The break mod we use support 30 kg of pression. Without calibration we have to approach these 30 kg of pression to be able to full brake....
So calibration can solved that.@S2N-Ava
Ahhhh. Yes. Finally, clicked in place.. You don't get full brake travel as the Cone prevents a full depress.. Sorry, I've not seen one in action. Makes sense now.
My Pedals have the same number of steps, but I've used a Bungee Cord to achieve my resistance, therefore, I'm not loosing full brake travel.
Back in GT5 - I used a Logitech G25. Leather rim and 3 pedals.
Purchased my PS4 last year, Logitech no longer supported, so went out and purchased a Thrustmaster T300... My rig was already set up with my existing equipment... Took one look at the Thrustmaster pedals and started to look for an adapter to plug straight into my Logitech ones, found one in the States... worked perfectly and never had to touch that end of the rig.
Long ago, the pedal pressures were changed, the brake spring went into the clutch pedal, and the clutch spring went into the accelerator, accelerator to the brake - making 2 of the 3 pedals a harder pressure. Then as I had no other mod at hand for the brake pedal itself... I rigged the brake pedal with a luggage bungee cord and it worked great... the pressure was a lot stronger than before, so decided to leave it at that.
I do have full brake travel, but the pressure to get there is strong enough for me to deal with.
Basically, what this long speech is saying..... the calibration doesn't really effect my setup so badly as I can obtain full brake travel - well just, it is very hard push to get there.
It's just effects you guys with the cone that can't reach full brake travel.
Yes. And if the calibration is not possible I will end up to remove the cone.@S2N-Ava
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